November 22, 2008--Monday

The time is going quicker and quicker all of the time. I feel as though I am a part of the Mouma family here. Everyone has been more than hospitable. The Moroccans could give classes on the definition of hospitality.

We have been busy doing day to day things (work, eating, relaxing) and also just having fun.

Classes overall are going well. Since the Ministry of Education requires us to stay pretty much on task using the textbook, there is not that much to tell there. The most interesting aspects are that the students are curious and kind. I have spent some time as well communicating with students through MSN Messenger as they are eager to have an English conversationalist and perhaps feel more comfortable through written form. It has been interesting to say the least. But then as I found out, MSN has a language all to its own--language is great, it is always transforming and changing as is evident by the youth.

I often see Abdellatif or Nadia praying on a small carpet in the living room even with their busy schedules. I even saw a lady praying at the spa!

What is most evident though is that there is a lot of laughter in this home. It is infectious and pleasant to be around. We kid around often and we have a lot of discussions about everything--cultural differences and misunderstandings of cultural stereotypes. If I could have recorded the dialogues, they would be very interesting.

Tomorrow, I am giving a powerpoint presentation on my perspectives of the American culture and asking students to teach me about their perspectives of the Moroccan culture. I have worked on this presentation for hours and hours so I am looking forward to it. Then after that, Rihab (Abdellatif's daughter) has invited me to her high school to do a presentation with her about cultural difference in the US and in Morocco. Since she spent a year in Alaska (a state that she LOVES) we will both share our thoughts. Am looking forward to all of it.

Still, I want to also make some time at the end to buy more souvenirs in Morocco. There are beautiful hand-crafted items made of wood, beautiful scarves and clothing and unique pottery and tapestry as well. My only problem--how to carry all of the weight back to the States!

Pictures; pictures and more pictures

In the beginning, I had time to add more pictures and comments. I have been so busy lately and the time has been flying by, but this also means that I have not be adding daily blogs. These are a compilation of pictures from some of my adventures. The first few pictures are those of us visiting Casablanca. There, we visited "La grande mosquee de Hassan II" which was built by the courtesy of most of the Moroccans here.

The rest of the pictures are from Rabat. We visited Hassan where the former Kings were buried and also Chella.

The last couple of pictures are just ones that I liked. There are Moroccan flags in front of most store in Morocco. I thought that was particularly interesting because it was in Arabic and French.

The baby I am holding is one of Nadia's cousin's. They visited for an afternoon and we had a nice meal together. They are from Canada.

Pictures of my host family and their home in Rabat, Morocco

Their home is beautiful. It if full of Moroccan cultural art as I like to refer to it. The tiles are decorative and the doorways are one of the most unique features. The Moumas live only one block away from the Atlantic ocean. I am being literal here--literally one block away. The other day, I went for a walk for an hour along the path by the ocean. It was beautiful.

In the second picture, I am standing outside of their home.

The first is a picture of the entry way into the formal and informal living rooms.

The last is a picture of Ihab, Rihab and me (and Ihab's best friend).

The third is a picture of me sitting at the breakfast table.

More pictures to come later. I am having difficulty loading my pictures online. Sorry.

November 12, 2008--Wednesday--Have been busy!

On Sunday, we went to the market to do some shopping. We enjoyed a really nice treat made of yoghurt and fresh fruit. It is hard to explain but very yummy. The fresh produce in Morocco is amazing! There is a lot of very tasty fruit like mandarine oranges, pears and many others. There is even a banana tree in the Mouma's home.

I have been busy in the classrooms on Monday and Tuesday so I did not have time to update the blog. Both days were filled with Englishes classes. I am happy that Abdellatif is letting me help so much in his classroom. I think that he and I both feel comfortable working together and I feel that our collaboration has been good. I hope that I have been helpful. The students are curious and eager to ask questions and the time flies by. Most of the classes are about 50 minutes each in length but some of them are 2 hours with a short break in between. Just like when we teach French, it is nicer to see the students for shorter times more frequently.

I keep asking myself questions about what can be done about the class sizes and the resources in the classroom. Students must purchase their own textbooks and this is sometimes why not every single one of them has one. Teachers must make their own copies of tests as well, as there are not copy machines at the schools. So what do we take for granted? We assume in the US (this is a generalization but this is also my personal opinion regarding what I see and experience) that each student has the right to a textbook and that this should be provided for them in the public school setting. However, this is also becoming a challenge as we sometimes need to use "classroom sets" so that students share. But when this occurs, most of the time the community and the parents are upset and it is not also a condusive way of learning for the kids.

How many TVS, computers, copy machines and projectors do we have in which we use to help educate our students? In Abdellatif's "sophomore" class, he asked them to do homework where they needed to research Moroccan culture on three specific different websites but no one did the homework. We talked about that. I wonder, is it because the students don't have internet at home? Is it because they don't have enough money to go to an internet cafe? There are no "computer labs" in the schools for students or teachers. Or is it a matter of time and perhaps motivation just like students anywhere in the world?

Now actually, (and by the way, I feel quite spoiled but I am definitely taking advantage of the time to learn culturally) the students have a one week mid-term break. We won't have classes until next Wednesday here. This is only true for the public school system. I guess you can think about it like a "Thanksgiving break."

Oh and I wanted to add that one of the most common questions that I get in the classroom is whether or not I speak Arabic. The students wanted me to say, "peace be with you" and I tried. There was a thundrous applause afterwards. They were so happy that I tried. Then I was asked about my faith since almost all Moroccans are Muslim. I told them that though I respect many faiths, I don't personally practice any one particular one. Then a student asked me to repeat after him in Arabic. There was so much laughter that I asked Abdellatif why everyone was laughing all of a sudden. He said that the sentence the student wanted me to repeat would be the one that would convert me to the Islamic faith and guarentee him a place forever in Paradise.

More to come on discussions of religion and politics which come up in conversation more than anything else here. They are very interesting.

Also interesting is that there are schools here that are taught in Arabic and then there are schools here that are taught in French. The one I attend is taught in Arabic but the "educated" class can all speak in French. It is interesting to see how the view of "self" has been realized after the French colonization here after WWII. The Moroccans are very proud of their nationality as well as their faith, with nothing to hide. They are open-minded people, very gracious and kind-hearted and welcome foreigners with open arms.

One of the biggest conversations that Nadia and I had was about the stereotypes that Moroccans have about Americans. She gave me a pep talk one day before school and told me, "show them who Americans are--that it is not about the politics of your government or the war but that Americans as individuals are very nice." This is paraphrased but in essence what she said. The knowledge that Moroccans have of us in general is very negative because of the press and our political choices in the world.

I think the same could be said of the Muslim faith. We often stereotype Islamic beliefs because of the stories we hear of the extreme terrorist acts. When in fact most Muslim people here that I have met are very kind, with a WONDERFUL sense of humor. I have never heard so many people in a room laugh so much. And these are people are not drunk! Much of the Islamic faith has teachings which are similar to the teachings of Christianity which is just to be nice to others--to walk the talk.

That is a lot about their faith but it is such an ingrained part of their culture that it is really difficult not to include even though the Fulbright Exchange is a non-religious and non-political exchange. For the Moroccans, their life and their faith cannot be mutally exclusive.

November 8, 2008--Saturday--First Day of School

Today was the first day of English classes with Abdellatif. First, we drove from Rabat where he and his family live to the town next door which is called SalE. His high school is a public one called Alayoubi Lycee. He told me before that the biggest challenge for teachers right now in Morocco is the classroom sizes (one that we Americans may face soon enough).

He was right. His first class this morning had 41 students in it because there were three students who were absent. The Moroccan Educational Ministry provides a text that all teachers must follow very closely. This is very different from our system of education where each district and sometimes each school provides their own guidelines.

The classroom is void of educational resources except the teacher, perhaps one text per two students and a chalkboard. My first impression was that this would be a difficult setting in which to learn; however, the students are eager to answer questions and always raise their hand and say, "teacher. teacher." For every question he asks, he has at least ten to fifteen raised hands of students who want to answer. Amazing.

You can tell that his 27 years of teaching makes him comfortable with the students and at ease with confidence. Sometimes I find myself frustrated and raising my voice when students don't listen; he however, is always calm and very politely asks the students even though the classroom is full.

I found the pedagogical styles to be similar even though he has a lot less to work with in terms of materials to use. Sometimes he would write the incorrect answers he heard on the board and then ask another student to correct it. Sometimes he could just naturally correct their sentence and move on with the lesson. There were parts of the lesson in listening (which for today I got to help the most with!) and writing. It was wonderful that for 100 percent of the class, he spoke in English except for once when he asked a cultural question and then the students could respond in French. In this class, they are like our Freshman so they are working on the simple present tense but many of them have had English prior to this class.

All girls in public schools are required to wear white smocks though the guys can wear whatever they want. I found this interesting and asked about it and so Abdellatif asked his students as well. The response was that it is the law so they do it. I responded in French "because the sky is blue." Abdellatif thought that perhaps it is to help with the class distinctions but then I think this should be true as well for the men.

My favorite class was the one we had afterwards with the "sophomores." This was a little more advanced and its main purpose today was to talk about the culture. Abdellatif introduced me and the most out-spoken student asked me where I was from. We then moved to questions about Moroccan culture and what the students would say regarding their culture to foreigners. It was interesting to hear what the students said.

First; religion which is such an important part of their culture but with that they spoke about tolerance as well. I have viewed first-hand the tolerance that they have shown me as I do or ask inappropriate things. (Those of you who know me well know that I can put my foot in my mouth more often than not and do stupid things without really intentionally wanting to harm anyone but none-the-less thoughtless at times). Hand crafted items from Morocco was another response and it made me sad to think that so much of what we have is made from China and we have lost a lot of our culture but then also, our culture is such a blend of other cultures from around the world as well.

I think it was his principal who first said to me, "But you don't look American." And in fact, everyone here has thought that I was either Japanese or Chinese, at least in origin. I am a constant reminder that the US is indeed a melting pot.

Oh and in a hurry today I accidently wore my crocs to school. It was a big hit and was actually what labeled me as "American." Funny. I am enjoying my stay here very much. It is fascinating beyond words and I am always being treated with the very best of hospitality. I find myself very lucky.

P.S. Yes Ali, I am getting and appreciating all of your updates about school qt CHS through text messages! Keep them coming so I can stay in the loop!

November 7, 2008--Friday In Marrakesh

On Wednesday, my Moroccan host came to pick me up at 4:15PM after his classes. He is a very nice man--soft spoken and wise in mannerisms. That evening we did not return to the house until 11PM because we went to meet Abdellatif's wife, Nadia where she works. Then we all went out to eat at TGI Friday's. I was a little disappointed that my first meal in Morocco was an American chain restaurant that I have never eaten at in the US. However, I was grateful because I think they are trying so hard to welcome me into their lives and home.

Thursday was a busy day. It is a national holiday in Morocco called "La marche verte" which means the Green March when King Hassan the 2nd went to get the Sahara lands. Anyhow, no one worked so we all went to Marrakesh which is about a 3 hour drive on the highway. They said that in olden times, without the highway, it was very difficult to drive there. We began at 6AM and got home around midnight. With the jetlag, I was quite exhausted but again, what great hospitality.

In Marrakesh, we went to the town's center called "Jamaa lefna" where there were performing monkeys and snakes. Pictures can be taken with them but then of course, due to the tourism there, they want you to pay. One of the most enjoyable experiences for me has been drinking fresh squeezed orange juice. There are stands and stands of them here. All of the food is organic and taste wonderful. You will see it in a picture.

We spent several hours shopping through the open market called "souk." All of the items are so beautiful but if you don't speak Moroccan Arabic, they will charge you three times the normal price. "Normal" is relative though as Abdellatif keeps telling me to bargain when I speak to the vendors. In the US, we are so accustomed to set prices, here he says, that it is cultural to ask for a lower price and not offensive. So I tried it--it worked! I was able to buy three beautiful scarves for 170 "dirhams" which is about 15 US dollars.

They treated me to a Moroccan tattoo called "Henna" which is on my left hand. The afternoon was spent in a beautiful traditional Moroccan restaurant. First they wash your hands, then serve drinks (no alcohol since my family is a practicing Muslim family and so never drink alcohol, lots of coke and orange juice). Then Moroccan bread "khobz dar" with all kinds of vegetables. This is what I ate as they had first chicken and then lamb. They said that it is customary to show their hospitality by cooking a lot of meat so they found it funny that I am vegetarian. Then platters of fresh fruit followed with dessert and also Morrocan mint tea which is delicious. The tea is called "Atay naa naa."

The running joke during meals is that we mix between Moroccan Arabic, Lebanese Arabic (which are not mutually comprehensible), French and English so that everyone can communicate. Nadia's boss is here from Lebanon for one week trying to locate a new store for his natural facial products which are a big hit in Morocco.

Also, lunch is the main meal of the day when everyone comes home from noon to three to eat together. Everything is closed then and dinner is just whatever. As I type this on Rihab's computer (their daughter who is preparing for her bac) I hear in the distance the "Athan" who is on the city's intercom calling everyone to pray. They pray five times a day--the first time at sunrise, the fourth time at sunset and the Ministry sets the other times though they vary during the day. When we went to the supermarket yesterday, there was a man who pulled out his carpet (as the floor must be clean) to pray.

All for today. Tomorrow will be my first day teaching with Abdellatif and I am looking forward to it. He does not teach on Fridays but does on Saturdays.

November 5, 2008--Wednesday--Arrival in Rabat, Morocco

After 15 hours in three different airplanes, I have finally made it to Morocco.

My route from Denver to Cincinnati, Cincinnati to Paris and Paris to Rabat all occurred without a hitch. I was worried with all of the connections that I would actually see my bags in Morocco but there were no problems. When I arrived, I was greeted by the driver of MACECE office with one of those celebrity signs, "Fulbright Jennifer Williams."

Fifteen minutes later, we arrived at the office where Saadia Maske and I had a short "catch up" since I missed the three day orientation in Rabat with the other teachers. It's beautiful to hear her speak French, Arabic and English all so fluidly. In a phone conversation, they will code switch between three languages easily. She said that though only 40% of Moroccans have electricty, they all have a gift of speaking multiple languages.

I am now just waiting at the office to meet my Moroccan Exchange partner who is teaching his class right now. I am excited to finally meet him and his family after all of the email communications that we exchanged.

The weather in Morocco is beautiful today although the driver said that it wasn't so nice earlier this morning. It is very green and there are a lot of palm trees. Since the culture warrants covered clothing from head to toe, I am dressed in long pants, long shirt and a suit jacket that covers my bottom but really with the beautiful weather, I could be in a sun dress (I did not pack any though to be respectful of the culture). Most women also have their hair covered as well but that is not something I will do.

It seems that the biggest topic of conversation for anyone I have run into who knows that I am American is the new election and the announcement of Obama as the new president. There was immense cheering on the airplane. The Parisian whom I sat next to on the way to Paris was such a huge fan that she went to the US just for the elections. She was wearing an Obama pin as well as a huge watch with his picture on it.

The MACECE driver told me that people in Morocco were celebrating loudly when they found out that Obama won the elections. Then Saadia and I also discussed that as well. It is a historical event for the US but it is also so interesting how our elections are such a huge world wide event.

There is a 7 hour time difference between Colorado and Morocco. So if it is noon in Colorado, it is 7PM in Morocco. I am a bit exhausted but am so glad that I made it here. I am anxiously waiting to meet my host family. More to come...

Monday, November 3, 2008--Again, off to Morocco

Due to some complications, my departure was delayed. Now all is OK again and so I will fly out tomorrow. Here is the new itinerary. Wish me luck! It is not formatted well but you get the gist.

NOV 03 2008 ITIN H41AY JBMR06 04 NOV 08 - TUESDAY DELTA 42 SPECIAL CL 73H LV: DENVER 220P NONSTOP 1069 MILES CONFIRMED AR: CINCINNATI 655P JOURNEY TIME- 2:35 FOOD TO PURCHASE SEAT-27A AIRLINE LOCATOR: DL -CLP568 DELTA 44 SPECIAL CL BOEING 767 JET LV: CINCINNATI 735P NONSTOP 4155 MILES CONFIRMED AR: PARIS/DEGAULLE 950A JOURNEY TIME- 8:15 ARRIVAL DATE-05 NOV DINNER-MOVIE SEAT-39A AIRLINE LOCATOR: DL -CLP568 05 NOV 08 - WEDNESDAY DELTA 8316 SPECIAL CL 318 LV: PARIS/DEGAULLE 1235P NONSTOP 1138 MILES CONFIRMED AR: RABAT/SALE 225P JOURNEY TIME- 2:50 LUNCH OPERATED BY-AIR FRANCE AIRLINE LOCATOR: DL -CLP568 SURFACE TRANSPORTATION 06 DEC 08 - SATURDAY DELTA 7847 SPECIAL CL BOEING 767-300 LV: CAS/MOHAMED V 1125A NONSTOP 3609 MILES CONFIRMED AR: NYC/KENNEDY 245P JOURNEY TIME- 8:20 DINNER SEAT-19C OPERATED BY-ROYAL AIR MAROC AIRLINE LOCATOR: DL -CLP568 DELTA 167 SPECIAL CL 738 LV: NYC/KENNEDY 655P NONSTOP 1626 MILES CONFIRMED AR: DENVER 950P JOURNEY TIME- 4:55 FOOD TO PURCHASE-MOVIE SEAT-30C AIRLINE LOCATOR: DL -CLP568